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Cutting Techniques Using Scissors


Hairdressing Scissors
Most hairdressers use 11.5-12.75 cm (4.5-5in.) scissors for cutting women’s hair, and use only 1.25 cm (half an inch) of the blade for cutting. Men’s haircuts often take about 20 minutes, and therefore you need longer blades (14-15.25 cm or 5.5-6 in.) to cut more quickly.

Club cutting
This is the most common cutting technique. However, it must be precise and is often called precision cutting. The sub-section of hair must be cleanly combed through and held with a even tension before cutting.


The diagram shows hair cut at 90°for a layer cut, but the hair may be cut at any angle to the head according to the style planned. Club cutting may be done on wet or dry hair and the ends of the hair are left blunt and heavy (this is sometimes also called blunt cutting).

Taper cutting
Taper, slither or feather cutting will reduce both the length and the thickness of the hair. This technique is done on dry hair and, unlike club cutting, the hair is cut underneath the fingers.
Tapering is a sliding, slithering, backwards-and-forwards movement along a sub-section of hair. Close the scissor blades as you move towards the roots.

Freehand cutting
This is where the hair is cut without being held in place with tension from and forced directional pull. The hair is combed from its section and allowed to fall into its own natural movement before cutting.
It is a particularly useful technique during one-length cutting, where a straight line is required. On below shoulder-length hair, holding the hair with a finger underneath can cause unwanted graduation.
Cutting fringed with a cowlick will naturally make the hair bounce up too short if it is cut with tension.

Scissor over comb
This technique is used to give the same effect as ‘clipper over comb’ work. The hair around the nape and sides is cut short, following the contours of the head. Use a cutting comb to pick up the hair, keeping the scissors parallel to the comb during cutting. Use the comb in an upwards direction, lifting the hair so that the hair sticking through it can be cut off. Move the comb and scissors continually towards the top of the head, keeping the comb up and out and away from the head, cutting at the same time.

Thinning hair with thinning scissors
Thinning scissors are used for blending in weight lines and for softening hard lines, by being inserted at the ends of the hair. These scissors remove only thickness or bulk from the hair, not length. They are sometimes called aesculaps, serrated or texturising scissors.
Ordinary thinning scissors can be used to thin out from the middle of the hair, cutting diagonally across the sub-section of the hair.
Open and close them two or three times to remove the thickness.
Many new variations on the normal thinning scissors have now been developed, and the different shaped blades can be used to create a variety of exciting effects.
 
Combs
Cutting combs are normally used for cutting most hair, but thin flexible barber’s combs are needed to cut around the ears and necklines for really short cuts.


   
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